The recipe in this newsletter, Braised Short Ribs calls for Brown Stock/Veal Stock. I have not included a recipe for the stock as I could never do anything better than great chefs/cooks like Escoffier, Julia Childs or Thomas Keller and I suggest you use one or your personal favorite as a guide if you decide to make the stock. I have however included a few tips that I learned from my many years of cooking.
I first learned how to make this incredible, flavorful basic when I trained with a French chef in the mid 1970’s. It is a very long process, involving roasting, simmering, skimming, straining and can take up to 12 hours from start to finish. I make mine in a 12 quart stock pot and then freeze in glass freezer containers.
You can of course make this recipe using store bought beef broth/stock and you will still have a delicious dish. However, I encourage at some point to make your own stock. Perhaps on a cold winters day when you just stay in the warmth of your kitchen. It is for me such a joy to open my freezer and see a stack of containers of this “liquid gold” just sitting there, waiting for some future fabulous use.
The use of all or a percentage of veal bones is important and they are a great source of gelatin which can make your sauces thick and satin like without the addition of a roux. Veal bones also create a stock that is somewhat neutral in flavor so it can be used for beef, veal, pork, lamb and even some chicken dishes. I do like the bones that still have a bit of meat on them, but it isn’t necessary. The more important factor is the long, slow roasting and simmering.
There are some recipes that suggest simmering, rather the roasting the bones, as well as some recipes that do not use the roasted vegetables. I prefer roasted bones prior to simmering as it does add a depth of flavor as well as rich color. Veal bones tend to be a bit pricy, so you may consider a combination of veal and beef. I would suggest no less than 25% veal. Some recipes will include ham or shanks. I do not like the flavor that a smoked meat imparts, but it may be perfect for you. The vegetables also add a depth of flavor. Slow roasting to bring out color, flavor and a bit of caramel makes an excellent stock. Just to note, you don’t want anything to burn, so do keep an eye when roasting and turn down the oven temperature if needed.